Growing and maintaining a beautiful rose bush is a very
worthwhile endeavor. Although our humid climate in the Midwest
offers many obstacles to the success of the plant, a few simple steps
can be taken to overcome those issues.
SPRING ROSE CARE
You'll want to sharpen your pruners and get ready to tackle your roses
early to mid-April. First, remove all the old mulch. Do NOT
reuse the mulch; it could be hosting diseases from last year. As
soon as you see the first set of leaves, you know it's time to feed
your rose.
HYBRID TEAS, FLORIBUNDAS AND
GRANDIFLORAS:
You'll want to leave 3 or 4 balanced canes 8-12 inches above the
ground. When you prune always cut about 1/4 inch above an outward
facing leaf bud. Cut back any dead or damaged canes down to the
graft.
CLIMBERS:
You only prune climbers AFTER they bloom. You'll want to cut out
all dark brown or black canes and only prune green canes for shaping.
OTHER ROSES:
You'll want to cut out all dead canes and prune lightly or not at all.
Clean the old plant debris and any dead leaves. Now would
be a good time to add any Insect or Fungus control before they have a
chance to get started. Add new mulch and watch your rose grow.
BATTLING COMMON ROSE PROBLEMS:
The two biggest problems are fungus and insects. Rose leaves are
very supple and are prone to getting fungus ranging from powdery mildew
to black spot. They are also prone to every type of pest ranging
from Aphids, Slugs, and Beetles. The humidity in our area makes
roses a wonderful home.
To battle fungus, it is best to plant a rose in the sunniest part of
your yard. They need at least eight hours of direct sunlight to
thrive and can tolerate as much sun as they can get. This amount
of light allows any water to evaporate from the leaves throughout the
day leaving them dry at night. It is also best to do all watering
in the morning and water only the ground. Keep as much water off
the leaves as possible. If fungus is discovered, remove those
leaves as soon as possible. This can often keep it from
spreading. If the problem persists, you may need to spray.
If you are an organically minded gardener, Hydrogen Peroxide is a
natural fungicide. It does not last as long with each application
as a chemical, but can be effective if administered routinely.
You may also use a spray fungicide to tackle the fungus issue. To
battle insects, the best way is to spray an insecticide on the
rose. Seven or Eight is an excellent dust or liquid that will
deter both slugs and other insects. You could try an insecticidal
soap, which could also be effective. It like the peroxide will not last
as long and may need application more often. Using a three-in-one
rose spray that contains a fungicide, insecticide, and miticide is a
great product to consider. One chemical can take care of it all.
With most Roses, you likely will be battling both issues. Keep in
mind that a well-nourished plant is better able to defend itself.
Hence, regular fertilizing with a standard fertilizer throughout the
growing season is always recommended.
MAINTENENCE:
Deadheading is critical to rose care. After the blooms have
died off, prune back to the next five-leaf stem on the main
branch. This will send up a new stem with new blooms. Roses
also like a well drained soil condition. Therefore, water just
enough to give the plant what it needs, but not so it is
swimming. Most roses prefer to have sand mixed in with their soil
when be potted or planted.
WINTER ROSE CARE:
After the first hard freeze, cut back rose plants to about 24 inches
and tie the canes with twine. This helps protect the roses from
wind and ice. Around the base of each plant, mound fresh loose
soil or compost at the base about six to eight inches high. If
desired, another layer of straw can be added for extra
protection. Roses in our cold winters need a winter coat to
ensure they survive. Leave the mound until new growth appears
next spring, then remove the mound and add fresh mulch.
Following these simple steps can increase the health of the plant
increasing the enjoyment of your garden.
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